From Randy Smith
Here is an as yet unnamed knot I devised for equalization system.
This knot resulted from a desire to find an equalization system knot with double loops on the load side, and, for the small inner loop on the anchor side, which, in systems with 3 or more anchors, carries a significant portion of the force placed on the load side.
You will note if you tie this knot that the load side loops are directly linked on one side with the inner loops on the anchor side.
Given a sudden dynamic load, I believe the inner loops will shorten and the load loops elongate.
If the knot is tied tightly, the friction involved should cushion the anchors slightly against the shock.
Of course, I could be totally out to lunch.
The knot is based on the Fisherman's Bend/Double Fisherman's Bend, though I got the idea from a modified version called the Fi-Nall Fisherman, devised by Jean-Marc Filion and Robert Chisnall, and published in the Ontario Rock Climbing Association safety manual (credit where credit is due!).
Getting to the point: I don't have access to the kind of facilities needed to test this knot in a controlled manner.
If you do, have at it! And please, let me (and everyone else) know the result.
Give it a try, I'd appreciate your feedback.
P.S. - For simplicity I've pictured a single Fisherman version, but we are working with a double Fisherman version.
